How to Become a Winemaker in Quebec: A Journey of Passion, Challenges, and Deeply Rooted Dreams
- Benoit Labelle
- 6 days ago
- 6 min read
Updated: 6 days ago
Becoming a winemaker rarely starts with a business plan or a neatly organized Excel spreadsheet. More often, it begins with a slowly growing idea, a glass of wine in hand, a landscape that feels a little too dreamlike… and a slightly unreasonable thought: “What if I made my own wine?”
Behind the postcard-perfect image lies a demanding profession—sometimes harsh, always alive. A craft shaped by the land and patience, by embraced doubts, repeated gestures, and seasons as unpredictable as the weather itself. So how does one become a winemaker? Does it require formal training, ideal land, a family legacy… or simply a healthy dose of stubborn determination?
Before diving into the world of winegrowing, it helps to understand what truly motivates those who choose to make wine—and to make it more than a product: a life project under open skies.
Discover in the following text what inspired our local winemakers to take the leap and transform a slightly crazy dream into reality.
An Idea That Takes Root… Often Long Before the First Vine
For Normand Guénette of Vignoble le Chat Botté, the idea of making wine took shape early. A wine lover, he traveled Quebec’s wine routes and worked in France in the mid-1990s. He observed, tasted, and learned. Wine became a lasting passion. In 2001, meeting Isabelle marked a turning point: both shared the desire to live off the land. They purchased a property in Hemmingford with the initial idea of raising animals. Vines came later—almost naturally—sparked by a pivotal meeting with Alain Breault, an influential figure in Quebec viticulture. In 2004, the first 5,000 vines were planted. An agricultural project fueled by a love of wine.
For Fred Tremblay of Vignoble Camy, the love of wine is obvious, but another dimension drives him: challenge. A trained engineer and self-professed perfectionist, he sees wine as a limitless universe. The more time, attention, and knowledge invested, the more quality can evolve. “You have to be a little crazy to jump into this,” he admits—but that’s exactly what motivates him. Naturally curious, he finds in winemaking an endless learning ground where agriculture, processing, chemistry, and sales intersect.
Sylvain Haut of Domaine des Salamandres followed a more accidental path—quite literally. Coming from the construction industry, he had to change careers after a workplace accident. Of French descent through his father, he moved to Hemmingford and began looking for work. One encounter changed everything: he was hired to manage the orchard at La Face cachée de la pomme. With no prior experience, he learned on the job for eight years. Daily contact with production, transformation, and the rhythm of the seasons sparked his desire to go further.
For Benoit Labelle of Hemmingford Winery, wine has long been a passion. In his early twenties, he took tasting and wine-knowledge courses at the SAQ. He has owned land in Hemmingford since 2005. Watching neighboring vineyard projects emerge, the idea became clear: to give this land a purpose. The project began on a very small scale before growing into a three-hectare vineyard.
A Romantic Dream… or a Rational Project?
While a dream is often the spark, the way a vineyard is built can vary greatly.
For Normand, the project is first and foremost guided by the heart. At the time, information about viticulture in Quebec is scarce, markets are closed, and vineyards are few. Creating a structured business plan is a real challenge.
For Fred, the approach is planned. An engineer and naturally cautious, he analyzes, calculates, and structures. His best ally? Excel. Even though the vine always holds surprises, the framework remains solid and well thought out.
Benoit begins in a very rational way: 165 vines, six grape varieties, and a small winery set up in a shipping container. A low-pressure learning phase. Then, in 2022, the project shifts. Expansion, new buildings, and the transition into a true business mark the moment when the dream overtakes simple experimentation.
Land: Found, Chosen, or Tamed
The relationship with the land lies at the heart of winemaking.
For Normand, the land was almost a discovery - the agricultural project had not yet been defined at purchase. For Fred, land selection was meticulous: slope, soil, exposure, and residence. Two years of searching for the ideal site.
Sylvain planted his first vines on his neighbor’s land, with permission. That parcel officially became his in 2006. As for Benoit, the land had been there all along, simply waiting to reveal its viticultural potential.
Learning to Become a Winemaker
All agree on one thing: winemaking requires a wide range of skills, rarely acquired from the outset.
Normand emphasizes short training programs, meetings between winemakers, and strong professional support. Fred credits his mentor, Luc Roland, who introduced him to the craft and trained him in the field—ultimately triggering a complete career change.
Sylvain learned mainly through observation and exchange, notably with Christian Barthomeuf, a pioneer of cider and wine in Quebec. Benoit combines hands-on learning, guidance from agronomists and oenologists, and university-level training. Yet everyone agrees: trial and error is part of the job.
Mistakes That Shape the Winemaker
Doubt is an integral part of the journey.
For Normand, the first wake-up call was financial. In the early 2000s, reliable information on realistic startup costs for a vineyard was scarce or nonexistent. While the price of a vine may seem modest, everything surrounding it—machinery, infrastructure, and winemaking equipment—represented a major and often underestimated investment.
For Fred, weather is the ultimate teacher. Difficult vintages forced him to push himself and learn how to make better wines under less-than-ideal conditions—years that truly drive progress.
Sylvain learned to trust his instinct. After trying to apply too many sometimes-contradictory pieces of advice, he realized his terroir and vision needed to guide his choices.
Benoit quickly understood that a vineyard cannot be managed as a hobby. Between 2018 and 2020, poorly timed absences led to mistakes in both vineyard and cellar, resulting in a complete project reorganization and a shift to full-time involvement.
Breakthrough Moments That Build Confidence
Thankfully, there are defining moments. For Normand, winning a gold medal at the Grands vins du Québec competition in 2013 served as validation. Fred relies on a clear commercialization strategy and the ability to seize opportunities. Sylvain stands out through innovation - especially with pear cider (poiré) - gaining entry to the SAQ. Benoit draws motivation from customer loyalty and the firm decision to work exclusively with noble grape varieties.
A Demanding Profession, a Deeply Human Project
Becoming a winemaker is never a straight path. It is a long-term commitment, a constant dialogue with nature, and ongoing self-questioning. But for Normand Guénette (Vignoble le Chat Botté), Fred Tremblay (Vignoble Camy), Sylvain Haut (Domaine des Salamandres), and Benoit Labelle (Vignoble Hemmingford), it is above all a life project.
A slightly crazy dream, perhaps. But one that, once rooted, gives birth to wines filled with stories, territory, and humanity.
PORTRAIT PROFILES
Normand Guénette
Vignoble le Chat Botté – Hemmingford, Montérégie
Founded by Normand Guénette and Isabelle, Vignoble le Chat Botté was born from a deep passion for wine and a sincere desire to live off the land. After experiences in France and along Quebec’s wine routes, the project took root in Hemmingford in the early 2000s. Recognized early on, notably with a gold medal at Grands vins du Québec, the vineyard stands out for its artisanal approach, strong connection to Quebec terroir, and authentic wines.
Fred Tremblay
Vignoble Camy – St-Bernard-de-Lacolle, Montérégie
Founded by Fred Tremblay, Vignoble Camy is the result of a meeting between scientific rigor and an intense passion for wine. An engineer by training, Fred approaches viticulture with method, curiosity, and high standards. Every step, from vineyard to cellar, is designed to push quality boundaries.
Sylvain Haut
Domaine des Salamandres – Hemmingford, Montérégie
Domaine des Salamandres, led by Sylvain Haut and his family, was born from a career change and an unconventional path. After several years working at La Face cachée de la pomme, Sylvain developed valuable hands-on expertise. The estate is recognized for its innovative spirit, notably through pear cider production, which complements its wines and distinguishes it within Quebec’s beverage scene, including at the SAQ.
Benoit Labelle
Hemmingford Winery – Hemmingford, Montérégie
Founded by Benoit Labelle, Hemmingford Winery is a constantly evolving project. Started on a small scale for learning and experimentation, it now spans approximately three hectares. The deliberate choice to work exclusively with noble grape varieties (Vitis vinifera) such as Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Riesling positions the vineyard as a distinctive player in Quebec’s wine landscape.
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